Jon Souer - Studio Set Up

Camera alignment; for most models a 29-inch tall seat with an adjustable footrest will bring the seated subject to the correct height. By placing the seat and footrest in the proper position the subject will be encouraged to sit at the proper location and starting pose without spending time on direction. (For the overweight subject use a taller stool to allow their paunch to drop. For young children, use a shorter stool and lower the camera for safety reasons.)

The camera lens should be at about eye level for head and shoulders portraits, chin level to chest level for 3/4 length and chest level to waist level for full-length portraits. An even lower camera height for heavyset clients, that are posed standing, will make them appear taller and more "regal." A higher camera position in head and shoulders portraits will give their eyes a more "glamourous" look. This is typically used for young females, however, if a 55-year-old woman wants to look glamourous, (or if she has a double chin) the use a higher camera position is called for. A bald man may be shot from a slightly lower angle to minimize the shine from the top of the head. It all depends of the final use of the image.

Background Control; A busy, sharply focused or brightly-lit background will distract from the image. Often a subject dressed in all white looks great in a medium or high key background. Conversely, a subject dressed in dark clothing looks best on a medium or dark (low key) background. However, the final look and feel of the desired image will dictate the key level for the background. Select the background color to complement the skin tone and select the key to complement the cloths. (For catalog or fashion images a contrasting background will highlight the cloths or accessories more then the model. In high school senior portraiture mix up the color and key of the background to personalize the shot.) Camera-to-subject and subject-to-background distances are critical for control of the image. The background should be behind the "in focus" depth of field for the shot.

Light: Portraits usually look best with one side of the face is brighter than the other side, this adds drama and depth to the image and is artistically pleasing. Proper control of light will have the largest effect by the photographer on the look and feel of the lay out being shot. Paint your subject with the light, not the camera!

Alter the main and key light levels to illuminate the subject with just enough contract for the desired effect. (When the shadow side of the face is closest to the lens it is called short lighting. Short lighting will make the face appear narrower and more slender. If the shadow is on the side opposite of the lens it is called broad lighting. Broad lighting will make the face appear wider and heavier. Flat lighting, like that from a flash mounted on camera is where there are no shadows on the face at all and should be avoided.) For backgrounds with a key close to the subject, turn the background light toward the camera and align the camera in the subjects' shadow. Use gels to alter the color of the background or soften the models look.

The hair light should kiss the hair, not blast it. This is true for the kicker lights as well. The main and key lights should be used to control the lighting, the supporting lights should only be used to bring out fine detail in the shadows. It you turn them up to high you no longer have shadows, just flat lighting.

When shooting with natural light changing the direction and intensity of the light will have a large impact. Move your subject relative to the light source to adjust the direct light then use screens and reflectors (or fill with flash) to control the shadows. Different color reflectors will change the tome of the models' skin.

When shooting outdoors early morning or late afternoon has the richest light. A cloudy day has great naturally diffused light with no shadows. If you must shoot in bright sun, turn your subject with the sun behind them and expose for the face with flash fill. (If desired a blue cloud filled sky can be added later in Photoshop.)

Props; Simplicity is usually best! Too many props in an image will create confusion for the viewer. Add props at the end of the shoot unless shooting on location and they really add something. Remember that the eye should immediately be drawn to the subjects' face and gaze on that look. Do not allow the background to draw attention away from the subject of the portrait.